Puppy Stuff! - Factsheet

VACCINATION

Initial vaccinations are carried out at 8 weeks and 10 weeks of age, after which your puppy will soon be protected so that he/she can go out to public places and meet other dogs. Yearly 'top-up' injections will be required throughout your dog's life in order to ensure continuous protection. Vaccination against kennel cough and rabies are not routinely given but can be required in certain circumstances, please ask for details.

BEHAVIOUR/SOCIALISATION

The first 4 months of your puppies' life is the period when he/she learns what is good in the world and of what to be afraid. It is very important that your puppy has as many positive experiences as possible during this period, with different adults, children, animals and noises (vacuum cleaners, washing machines, traffic etc). This will give your puppy the best chance for growing up to trust other people and animals, and not develop behavioural problems that would be difficult or even impossible to correct in later life. Please refer to the excellent booklets provided when you first registered with us. A little effort now can prevent a lot of problems later. Your puppy will be invited to attend puppy classes on a Thursday night to help with the socialisation process until they are 12 weeks old. These classes provide a good grounding for further training classes as your puppy gets older.

FEEDING

When you first collect your puppy find out what diet the breeder has been feeding and feed the same for the first few days. Any sudden change in diet is likely to cause stomach upsets especially because your puppy will have been stressed by the experience of changing home.

It is important to feed your puppy on a well balanced diet designed specifically for puppies. If the food from the breeder is not ideal then slowly change to a more suitable diet over a period of at least 5 days, gradually increasing the amount of the new diet and decreasing the amount of the original diet. Tinned food and dry foods can both be suitable for small or medium sized dogs. Dry food has the advantage that it is easier to store, and to measure the amounts given. It also allows for one or two of the biscuits to be given to treat your puppy during training.

Puppies of large breeds have more specific nutritional requirements. Due to the nature of these breeds the puppy grows very quickly, often in spurts, and joint problems can develop that may then affect them for life. If your puppy is likely to reach an adult weight above 25kg you should feed a food designed specifically for them right from the start. Please ask for details if you are unsure. This really is important for long term joint health – don't leave it to chance.

EXERCISE

Once you begin taking your puppy out for walks care needs to be taken over how much exercise he/she is given. Over-exercising a puppy can lead to joint problems that can result in short and long-term pain. Therefore initially allow your puppy to exercise him/herself for about 20 minutes maximum at a time, three times a day. The initial five minutes can be taken up with basic training followed by play/exploration, then perhaps a little more training but be aware that puppies have a limited attention span. Reserve longer walks for when your puppy is more developed, which in larger breeds can take a year or more. Certainly avoid jogging and if at any stage your puppy looks tired then stop and return home - a few hours sleep will soon recharge the batteries ready for the next time!

PLAY TIME

Every puppy wants to play, and most people want to play with their puppies. Play time is a time for bonding and learning. Puppies naturally use their teeth in play, learning how to hunt and fight. In a domestic situation this play-biting should be redirected towards toys, not people, to avoid accidents that could have disastrous consequences for the dog if anybody is hurt. Puppies also like "tugging" games but again this type of play should be avoided. There are two reasons for this: Firstly, from a behavioural point of view it encourages the puppy to challenge you, and consequently, your position in the pecking order, and secondly, puppies' teeth are actually quite fragile and can break off. The remainder of the tooth may then have to be removed under anaesthetic.

On a more positive note, playing will increase the strength of the bond between you and your puppy and you can use play as a way of getting your puppy used to being handled. Therefore regularly touch your puppies' feet and ears, and start getting your puppy used to having his teeth cleaned. The more your puppy associates these acts with fun then the easier it will be for you (and us!) to examine your puppy for any signs of ill-health.

WORMING

Your puppy should have been wormed by the breeder, but if not then your pup will require at least two courses of a wormer. After the initial puppy doses all dogs require worming every 3 months in order to reduce the risk of problems to themselves, and to you, your family and members of the public. Please see the separate handout on Worming.

FLEA CONTROL

Fleas can be a problem throughout the year because once they get into the house they will start to multiply unless steps are taken to prevent this. Summer is the worst time of year for them as the warm weather encourages them to breed at a faster rate, but in the winter fleas enjoy the benefits of central heating. Prevention can take a number of forms including tablets, topical spot-ons and sprays, and aerosol sprays for the house. Spot-on preparations such as Frontline® and Stronghold® tend to be easiest to apply and both are very effective. Frontline® is also available as a spray which is safe enough to be used on puppies as young as 2 days old. Please ask for details. Flea collars and shampoos should be avoided as they can be harmful to your puppy.

INSURANCE

We all try to keep our pets as healthy as possible, but a lot of problems cannot be prevented and most animals do require veterinary attention at some stage in their lives. Illnesses and accidents will need professional care but all of the advantages that modern veterinary medicine and surgery offer can come at a quite a price. Therefore we strongly advise owners to take out a pet insurance policy. There are many companies offering insurance and we will recommend those companies that offer the best blend of price and cover for your breed of dog. (Some breeds really do get expensive so ask us – we know who they are! In particular, be sure to read the small print. Some only pay out for the first 12 months of a problem – not much use for most dogs. Others have a limit per condition, typically £6,000. The top-of-the-range policies cover you for £7,000 per year. So, the seemingly cheapest companies may be much more costly in the long run compared to those asking a bit more per month in return for guaranteeing payment even if the problem lasts many years. Arthritis and heart problems are just two examples that would involve life-long treatment costs. In general you do seem to get what you pay for - the more comprehensive the cover the higher the premiums.